Author . 



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Title 



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•X8..U-S. 



Imprint. 




The Isle of Pines: 

(CARIBBEAN SEA) 



ITS 



1TUATION, PHYSICAL FEATURES, INHABITANTS, 
RESOURCES, AND INDUSTRIES. 



WITH MA.F»S. 




PREPARED IN THE DIVISION OF INSULAR AFFAIRS, 

WAR DEPARTMENT, 

1902. 

LII8AHY OF CONGRESS, 

RECEIVED 

wmm Of DOCUMENTS, 



WASHINGTON: 

Government Printing Office. 

1902. 



The Isle of Pines: U3 



(CARIBBEAN SEA) 



ITS 



SITUATION, PHYSICAL FEATURES, INHABITANTS, 
RESOURCES, AND INDUSTRIES. 



WITH MAPS. 



PREPARED IN THE DIVISION OF INSULAR AFFAIRS, 

y 

U. Si, WAR DEPARTMENT, 
1902. 



WASHINGTON: 

Government Printing Office. 

1902. 









*\ 



tfbHf 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Title . 1 

Table of distances . - 5 

Location and boundaries 5 

Area — - 6 

Physical features 6 

Rivers and streams 7 

Topography and hydrography . 9 

Mineral springs 13 

Climate 14 

Bays and harbors 15 

Communications . . 17 

Distances to points on mainland of United States 18 

Cable and telegraph 18 

Roads and trails.. 19 

Population and towns 19 

List of towns, villages, and haciendas 20 

Census statistics 22 

Dependent islands 25 

Agricultural resources _ 25 

Vegetable products 26 

Minerals 27 

Forests 28 

Fruits 29 

Industries ' .. . 30 

Fauna 31 

Commerce r 31 

Coinage, weights, and measures 1_. 31 

Civil government 32 

Political status .___• -... 32 

Historical events 33 

Public lands, taxes, and dues 33 

Appendix — Physiography of the. Isle of Pines 35 

MAPS. 

Isle of Pines, surrounding waters, and mainland faces 5 

Puerto Frances and Siguanea Bay faces 15 

Steamer routes from United States railway tide-water terminal points 

and connections for Isle of Pines faces 17 

Towns, villages, haciendas, physical features, and roads -..- faces 19 

(3) 




ISLE OF PINES— SURROUNDING WATERS AND MAINLAND. 



THE ISLE OF PINES. 

[see map.] 



[n * * * That the Isle of Pines shall be omitted from the proposed constitutional boundaries of Cuba, 
the title thereto being left to future adjustment by Treaty." — Act of Congress U. S., approved March %, 1901.] 

Capital, NuevaGerona; latitude 21° 57' N., longitude 82° 40' W. 
(approx.). 

Area, 986 square miles. 

Population, United States Census of 1899, 3,199; Spanish cen- 
sus of 1887, 1,992. 

Race, Spanish and colored. 

Language, Spanish. 

United States Military Department of Cuba, Headquar- 
ters, Habana. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

Statute 

, From Ntieva Gerona — miles. 

To Batabano, NNE - 65 

To Habana, N. by E., via Batabano 90 

To Miami, Fla., via Habana 238 

To New Orleans via Batabano and Habana 810 

To New Orleans by sea 828 

To Pensacola, Fla., via Batabano and Habana 713 

To Pensacola by sea 783 

To Tampa, Fla. , via Batabano and Habana 350 

LOCATION AND BOUNDARIES. 

The Isle of Pines, also called Reina Amalia, lies in a deep bight 
off the south coast of the western part of Cuba, between latitude 
21° 24' 40" and 21° 56' N., and longitude 82° 30' and 83° 12' W. 
Its extreme northwest point (de ios Barcos) is 30 nautical or 34i 
statute miles southeast of Punta de Carraguao (Pinar del Rio), the 
nearest land of- Cuba. Its surrounding waters are the Caribbean 
Sea. 

The island lies 730 miles (statute), across the Caribbean Sea, 
north of Greytown entrance to the Nicaragua canal ; 850 miles 
north by west of Colon entrance to the Panama canal; 230 miles 
east of the nearest coast of Yucatan, Mexico, and 370 miles north- 
west of Jamaica. It is protected from approach on the north 
by the coast of Cuba and from all sides on the Caribbean Sea by 
the shallow channels and innumerable keys which can be easily 

(5) 



6 

rained. The island, in a defensible point of view, can be made 
impregnable at a minimnm ontlay. 

The Cnban provincial name of the island is " Qnitrin," on 
account of the resemblance of its outline to the body of a chaise 
(volante). 

AREA. 

It is 34 miles from north to south and 43 miles from east to 
west on a line with Point Frances. Its area is 986 square miles, 
or 631,040 acres, including the Cienaga, but 99 square miles less 
than the land superfices of the State of Rhode Island, and within 
264 square miles "of its total of land and water. It is nearly equal 
in size to the combined area of the 1,360 other- isles, islets, and 
keys which encircle Cuba. According to the " Derrotero de las 
Antillas" the island [its arable portions] is a square of 30 miles 
if a narrow tongue which runs from its southwest corner 11 miles 
to the northwest is not considered. The greatest length is from 
northeast to southwest, 43 miles, and breadth at the center from 
east to west 32 miles, and in the south 43 miles. 

PHYSICAL FEATURES. 

The island has a geological relation to the general chain of 
insular mainlands of the Antilles, and is unlike the numerous low 
coral and sand formations known as keys and mangrove swamps 
scattered in such profusion off the coast. In general the surface 
is a plateau of 50 to 100 feet above sea level, broken by ridges of 
hills or cliffs that project abruptly above the general surface. 

The two mountain ridges at the northern end reach an elevation 
of about 1,500 feet, and are composed of limestone and marble. 
The other ridges in the center are much lower, less precipitous, 
and formed of gray sandstone, red rock and gravel, containing 
iron. 

The most remarkable summits are the Sierra de la Canada, 1,600 
feet high, with precipices 150 feet; Daguila, 1,500 feet high, from 
the summit of which may be had a view of the entire island : 
Sierra de Cabalios, 1,074 feet high; Mount Casas, about 2 miles 
from the latter, composed of beautiful marbles of various colors, 
and Mount Cristales, of moderate height, its sides being covered 
abundantly with green rock crystals. 

The southern part, comprising about one-third of the entire 
area, is an impassable cienaga or salt bayou and lagoon, inter- 
spersed by islets and rocky ledges of locally known ' ' dog-tooth " 
or coral rock, and occupied by fishermen. There is a small open 
lake on the south of the causeway, which connects with the higher 
ground. 



A chain of islets from its extreme east point, called the Islas de 
Mangles, extends in a northwesterly direction into the bight, 
which is filled with a number of small keys. From the south- 
eastern shore at Piedras Point another chain of keys extends 
eastwardly to a point southwest of Cienfuegos. North of these 
lie the Jardines and Jardinillos banks, a very shallow body of 
water, so named on account of their verdure-strewn islets, in 
many of which springs of pure water bubble up from the deep. 
These banks and keys, extending east and west like curtains from 
the island and the cienaga on the south of the mainland, form an 
impassable line of defense against attack from the Caribbean Sea. 

The whole island, with the exception of the rocky southern 
coast, is surrounded by mangrove swamps, with here and there a 
stretch of sandy beach. 

The island has a number of rivers of excellent water, the most 
important of which emptying on the north coast are the Nuevas, 
composed of several mountain tributaries, 5 to 10 feet deep, and 
navigable 4 or 5 miles; the Sierra de Casas, also composed of 
several mountain branches, near the mouth of which Nueva 
Gerona is situated, and accessible by vessels drawing 5 feet. On 
the northeast coast is the Santa Fe, formed of -many streams, on 
the main one of which, navigable for small craft, the town of the 
same name is situated. On the east coast is the Guayabo. The 
cienaga or swamp on the south receives the mountain drainage 
through the outlets of nine streams. On the west coast are no 
streams of importance. 

RIVERS AND STREAMS. 

The drainage of the island is represented by the following rivers 
and streams: 

Bernardino. — A rivulet tributary to the Sante Fe on the south. 

Callejon, Rio del. — Near the west coast; rises in the Sierra 
San Jose ; flows north by east past Santa Teresa and La Nuevas. 
Of the stream of the latter name it is the west tributary. 

Casas Rio de Sierra. — Rises in the highlands of the north 
near Santa Rosalia. It flows north, passes Nueva Gerona, the 
capital, to which point it is navigable for the steamer which plies 
between the island and Batabano on the Cuban coast, and enters 
the sea about the center of the north coast of the island between 
Fuera and Barcos points. 

Cayamas. — A rivulet which, rising east of Asiento de Santa Fe 
and flowing northeast, is lost in the lagoons near the coast south 
of the mouth of the Santa Fe. 



Citerna. — The larger and western of the many tributaries of 
the Las Nuevas, rising in the Sierra de la Canada in the southwest 
of the island. 

Grande. — A small stream rising south of Sierra Seiba and 
emptying into the Cienaga on the south. 

Gtjayabo. — Rises in the vicinity of San Juan on the east, and 
flowing northeast empties into the sea south of Potrero Point, 
east coast. 

Indios, Rio de los. — Rises in the Sierra de la Canada, flows 
west past San Antonio, and empties into Siguanea Bay on its 
northeast shore southeast of Majagua Point. 

Itabo. — A small stream emptying on the east shore of Siguanea 
Bay. 

Jagua, Rio de la. — Rises on the south watershed of the Sierra 
de la Seiba, flows southeast into the Cienaga on the east between 
the Cayo de Piedras and Boca de la Cienaga. 

Mal Pais. — Rises on the east slopes of the same summit as the 
ISTuevas and, flowing northeast, enters the Santa Fe at Jucaro, to 
which point the main stream is navigable. 

Medio, Rio dee. — A tributary of the Rio de las Nuevas, enter- 
ing that stream on its east shore near its mouth on the north coast. 

Nuevas, Rio de las. — The largest river on the island, rising in 
the same central summits which feed the Rio Mal Pais, Santa Fe, 
and Jagua. It receives its larger tributaries, Citerna, Callejon on 
the west, and Medio on the east, the latter near its mouth on the 
north coast east of Point de los Barcos. 

San Pedro. — Rises in the hills of that name near the southwest 
center and empties into the Boca de la Cienaga, in the northeast 
angle of Siguanea Bay. 

Santa Fe. — One of the most important streams but not the 
largest, with many small tributaries ; it rises about the center of 
the island and, flowing northeast, enters the bight betwe.en points 
Fuera and Potrero. On the main stream is situated the town of 
the same name and important thermal springs. (See "Thermal 
Springs.") It is also navigable to Jucaro (see). 

Santiago. — Rises between the Cerros del Aji and La Seiba and 
flows southeast, emptying into the Cienaga on the southeast near 
the Boca de la Cienaga. 

Siguanea, Rio de la. — Rises on the southern declivities of 
Sierra de la Canada and, flowing south, empties into the Cienaga 
mouth in the northeast angle of Siguanea bay. 

Tinas., Arroya de las. — A rivulet rising south of hill of del 
Monte and empties into the Cienaga on the west. 



9 

"The Universal Geography," by Elisde Reclus, Volume XVII, 
referring to the interesting physical characteristics of the island, 

says : 

Manzanillo bay * * * . Farther on, the Isle of Pines is connected with a 
labyrinth of reefs and islets, of which the best known are those of the Jardines 
Bank and the Jardinillos, forming a seaward prolongation of the Marsh of 
Zapata. In the Jardines, so named from verdure-clad islets strewn like "gar- 
dens " amid the bine waters, springs of fresh water bubble up from the deep, 
flowing probably in subterranean galleries from the mainland 

The Isle de Pinos (Pinos Island or Isle of Pines), which lies off the southwest 
coast of Cuba, is alone more extensive than all xhe other 1,300 isles and islets 
strewn around the Cuban seaboard. It consists in reality of two islands sepa- 
rated by a tortuous passage, half channel, half swamp, which winds at nearly 
uniform width for about 3 miles from west to east. This cienaga, or "marsh," 
as the Spaniards call it, is a riviere salee (salt river) analogous to that of 
Guadeloupe. 

Toward its eastern extremity a few rocky ledges flush with the water have 
been utilized to make a camino de piedra (stone causeway) between the two 
sections of the island. A great contrast is prescribed by these sections; 
that on the north is diversified with "sierras," groups of hills and isolated 
eminences,' one of the summits in the Sierra de* la Canada rising to a 
height of 1,540 feet; but the southern section is everywhere low, although the 
swampy savannas and impassable quagmires are here and there interrupted by 
sharp rocks, intersected by fissures and pierced by seborucos or pits. 

This part of the island seems to have been upheaved in relatively recent times, 
for even within the historic period islets on the coast have been submerged in 
continuous land by the mangrove thickets spreading over the intervening straits 
and shallows. 

TOPOGRAPHY AND HYDROGRAPHY. 

According to the "Diccionario Enciclopedico Hispano Ameri- 
cano," volume 15, Barcelona, 1894, quoting the "Derrotero de las 
Antillas" — 

The island is divided by a swamp sometimes impassable in its southern por- 
tion, which is in general very low and marshy. Its northern portion, which is 
mountainous and contains many rivers which are navigable for vessels drawing 
from 8.3 to 9.3 feet, is entirely covered with thick woods, where good pine is 
found ; the inhabitants engage in cattle raising and most of them reside in Nueva 
G-erona, a small place situated in the northern portion, composed of guano and 
yagua huts. The island can be distinguished from a distance of 45 miles in the 
south by three mountains, of which the highest and western one, which belongs 
to the San Jose Sierra, although having three peaks, appears to be one until its 
meridian is passed to the west ; and, according to the point whence one looks at 
it, it presents on the northern coast the Sierra de Caballos, which can be seen 30 
miles away. In the center is the Sierra de la Canada and the Siguanea hill, 
which, when approaching the west coast, may be seen at a distance of more 
than 30 miles ; and the peak of La Daguilla, nearer the eastern coast. Alejandro 
Helvecio Lanier, in his " Geography of the Isle of Pines," says that the total area 
is 614.34 sq. marine miles, or 211,000 hectares (1 hectare=2,471 a.), of which the 
northern portion occupies 133,000 and the southern 78,000, taking the straits of 
Cayo de Piedra and the bed of every large creek as dividing points. Its great- 
est length is from the eastern extremity to French Cape (Frances) 16f legal 



10 

leagues, or 70| kilometers (43^ miles), and its greatest width on the meridia 
76° 1' 2", 12J leagues, or 53£ kilometers (33 miles). Its nearest point to the 
Island of Cuba is distant lOf leagues (29 miles) from Barcos Point to the pc, I 
of the Palacios River in a northwest direction, and 24^ leagues (66.3 miles) froi.; 
the mouth of the river Sierra de Casas to Batabano. 

The northern portion of the island is covered with pine trees, and the groun 
is to a large extent sandy. Only on the banks of the rivers and around thj) 
mountains lands of good quality are to be found, good for the cultivation of any 
thing and the growing of wood of all the species known in Cuba. The southeri 
portion is perfectly level and very little above sea level. It is covered wit! 
trees of all kinds, which grow among rugged and sharp stones called " sebori 
cos," which render a passage through these thickets exceedingly difficult anc 
the removal of the many useful woods almost impossible. 

The littoral, from the mouth of the Sierra de Casas River to the foot of the 
Columpo is very low, being at sea level at almost every point. Only near the 
edge is it about half a yard above. As far as 600 varas (1,666 feet) to the interior, 
it is continually overflowed, not only because it is at sea level, but because it 
receives the waters from the plains and from various small creeks. All these 
low lands are covered with mangrove trees and lianas so dense that they are 
impassable. The banks of the Sierra de Casas River are also covered with 
similar trees, especially the western one, as far as the town. The foot of the 
Columpo is composed entirely of stones and enormous rocks, which appear to 
have broken away from its summit. From the Columpo to the Punta de Piedra 
the coast is a stretch of fine white sand, slightly higher than that on the other 
side of the Columpo and much wider and cleaner. Forty varas (111 feet) from 
the edge the land gradually descends until it reaches sea level, the greater 
portion being overflown. Near the Columpo is situated a forest of high trees 
containing a number of useful woods. Piedra Cape is composed of rocks, and 
to the west, at a distance. of 442 varas (1,228 feet), is situated the Piedra del 
Indio, which is likewise a rock. From Piedra Cape, the lands adjoining the 
coast continue low and marshy. These marshy lands contain various kinds 
of mangrove trees (mangles, prietos, and patabanes) up to near the mouth of 
Simon Creek, where there are mangroves "de una." This creek forms, before 
emptying into the sea, a large lake and inundates the surrounding land up to 
near the Bibijagua and the Morrillo. The shore of Los Flamencos is that which 
follows to the southwest of the Morrillo. It is separated from the leeward coast 
only by a strip 90 varas (252 feet) wide at its narrowest point. The other two 
points are formed by the ends of the Bibijagua Sierra. Between them lies a 
stretch of sand, and 50 varas (138 feet) from the coast the forest at the foot of 
the sierra begins. 

The coast from the Bibijagua Sierra goes in the same direction as the last 
named, but a little before Salinas Point there is a natural salt deposit 500 varas 
(1,472 feet) long. From the first to the third Salinas point the land next to the 
coast for a distance of 25 varas (69 feet) is at sea level, but it forms large, clean, 
salt pits, without any trees. These natural salt deposits, which it would be 
easy to work, increase in width to the west, forming large tracts. From here 
on, these tracts are very large, and from the shores of the Cocodrilos to the mouth 
of the Santa Fe river the sea connects with them directly, being separated 
therefrom only by a narrow strip of mangrove trees. The place where these 
tracts are largest is at Point Fuera. 

From the mouth of the Santa Fe River to the Grande Estuary, the entire coast 
consists of an impenetrable marsh. Thence to the eastern point, it is possible to 
land only at the Caudal wharf and at the points of Rancho Vie jo and Piedra. 
The mangrove thicket continues still further to the south of the east point and 



11 

reaches the point where the shore of the south coast begins, where a small hut 
is situated built of guano by fishermen. From this point, called the ' ' Rancheria 
of the East," begins a stretch of sand half a league long which forms a shallow 
bay. At the end of this sandy stretch begins the stone coast, continuing as far 
as Seboruco Alto and Brava Point. Here the "Playa Larga" begins, which is 
composed entirely of sand. At the same point a swamp f of a league (2 miles) 
wide begins, which stops at the head of the G-uanal. It is an absolutely 
impenetrable marsh. The greatest distance between the coast and the swamp 
is 300 varas (834 feet), and the shortest 80 (240 feet). The elevation of this 
land above sea level is not more than 3 varas (8 ^ feet) , as far as the point of 
Curazao, where the elevation is slightly higher, reaching 8 varas (22 feet) at 
Canoa Point, and continues at this elevation almost to the head of the G-uanal, 
where it is barely i vara (33.384 inches). The water of this swamp is salty and 
not potable. Pure water can not be found at less than 400 varas (1,111 feet) 
leeward from Maracayero Point. This swamp contains two estuaries by which 
it empties into the sea. The prin'cipal one is the Siguaneita. The second, which 
is very small, is located 120 varas (333J- feet) to the north of G-uanal Point. The 
entire Playa Larga, from Brava to Guanal Point, has a sandy bottom with some 
stones and 6 feet of water at its lowest depth. 

Half a mile south of Curazao Point is situated a bank even with the surface 
of the water. Eight hundred and fifty varas (236 feet) SSW. from the latter 
are situated two similar ones and some other lower ones. The rest of the stretch 
is unobstructed. The reefs and rocks begin at Brava Point, run to the south- 
east 1 mile as far as the quebrado (opening) of Barlovento, which are covered 
by 9 feet of water, continue south 700 varas (1,945 feet) and then WSW. as far 
as Guanal Cape, approaching the coast. In these reefs there are four openings 
which permit an entry into the Playa Larga. The first, already mentioned, 1 
mile south of Brava Point ; the second, opposite the Bay of Llimtete ; the third, 
south of Curazao Point, and the fourth, the largest, is that of Guanal Cape, 
which is nearly 1 mile wide. 

From the mouth of Sierra de Casas River to Barcos Point the coast land is 
low and swampy, almost level with the sea. The *trees in this swamp are 
mangroves, yanas, and patabanes, which extend as far as the water's edge, which 
is sandy. There are 3 feet of water and a sandy bottom up to 50 yards of the 
edge. Barcos Point is an impassable mangrove thicket at sea level. At the end 
of the bay there is a small estuary which connects with the sea north of the 
point, but it is impossible to traverse it with any vessel unless it is dragged over 
the mud. This bay is surrounded with swamps. The marshy lands continue 
very nearly to the Capitan Estuary, where a sandy stretch begins and con- 
tinues as far as the Pino Estuary, which has two mouths; that of the north 
1 foot deep and 40 varas wide, the other SSE. of the latter about 150 varas (416 
feet), 3 feet deep, but narrow and hardly visible. On each side of the first 
estuary are swamps and lakes of salt water, which continue along the banks of 
the sea as far as Buena "Vista Point and thence along the entire edge of the Bay of 
Siguanea, which begins at this point. The coast from said Buena Vista Point 
runs southeast to the mouth of the large swamp called Siguanea. Two and one- 
half miles distant is situated the Soldado Estuary, which is very small and the 
mouth of which is I of a league (0.675 mile) WSW. from the hill of the same 
name. Majagua Point is 4£ miles from Buena Vista Point. 

Along the entire coast of the Bay of Siguanea no river but the Indios 
empties, which has a very small mouth. Further on we come to French Cape, 
or the small key called Cayuelo, there being a distance of 3| miles therefrom to 
Cocodrilo Point on the bay. The port called Frances (French) consists of the 
bay which lies between Pedernales Point and the small tongue of land of La 



12 

Rancheria. SSW. of this point, 120 varas (133 feet) distant, there is a small 
key 24 Varas (66 feet) from northeast to southwest, and 70 (194 feet) from north 
to south. Between this small key and the land there is only 1 foot of water. 
This port has a fair capacity and sufficient water for merchant vessels; but 
vessels can not anchor at the entrance in 6 fathoms nor inside in 2, because the 
bottom is composed of large and rugged stones, with deep fissures, where the 
anchors would be lost. In the middle in 3.fathoms is a good sand and stone 
anchorage. The port is protected from the southeast, east, and northeast winds, 
but not from those coming from the third and fourth quadrants. This is one 
of the reasons which force an anchorage as far out as possible in order to facili- 
tate an easy departure in case of being surprised by the last-named winds. 
Vessels of small draft may in such case seek refuge behind Cape French, where 
there are two arms, having a mud bottom, entering the same from the north, 
which is 8 feet deep. 

The bay to the north of the Rancheria is closed on the west by reefs, and the 
passages in the latter have water sufficient only for small vessels, such as boats 
and canoes. Between the reefs and the coast there is an innumerable number 
of rocks beneath the surface of the water which make this region very difficult 
to navigate even for canoes, for which reason fishermen and guides living there 
have marked out the channels which lead to the Rancheria Point from this side. 
The edge of this bay and that of the north of La Vigia Point, as far as Cape 
Frances, is a sandy stretch. Fifteen varas (42 feet) from the water's edge the 
land is 3 varas (8 feet) above sea level, and from this point the elevation decreases 
until the swamp is reached, 120 to 150 varas (333 to 416 feet) distant. The 
southern beach or bank of La Rancheria or Port Frances is composed of quick- 
sands and of flat stones at the water's edge, preventing the landing of vessels. 
At the end of this bank there are some rocks 3 varas (8 feet) high and 9 feet of 
water next to them with a stone bottom. One hundred varas (28 feet) NNE. 
of this point is situated a small cove with so little water that it is difficult for 
canoes even to enter it, the bottom being of stone. From this point to the 
northwest point of the key which forms Cape Frances, there is a distance of Si- 
miles in a straight line in a direction running from southeast 18°. Two and 
three-fourths miles southeast 29° 1' 2" from Pedernales Point, is situated Lugo 
Point, and i mile north the cove of the same name. To the northwest there is 
a small bay which has a sandy shore, and southeast a high rock which extends 
to the center of the bay, where there are fishing banks. It has 3 feet of water 
and a sandy and stone bottom. At the end of the bay, north of Lugo Bay, there 
is another small bay, Ingles, li miles southeast of Pedernales Point. Two and 
one-half miles from Lugo Point is situated the Grande Bay ; then follow the 
Caletones, Cocodrilo points and the bay of the same name. From French Cape 
to Cocodrilos, carey fishing is very good. Then follows Infierno Bay, north of 
which is a large lake ; Jorobado Bay, where two creeks empty ; Diablo Bay, 3 
miles from the latter ; Purgatorio and Carapachivey bays, the largest of all on 
the southern side of the Island, with a mouth more than i league (0,6479 
mile). Finally, we come to Agustin Fol Bay. There is a distance of 4 miles 
from this bay to the head of the Guanal. 

The mountains of the Isle of Pines, by order of elevation, are: Canada, 
Daguilla, Caballos, Sierra Casas del Sur, Sierra Casas del Norte, San Pedro, del 
Monte, de la Seiba, Lacunagua, Mai Pais, Aji, La Manigua, San Jose (last hill 
in the south), Sierra Pequena, Columpo, Bibijagua, etc. The Canada Sierra, 
the highest, is 1,653 feet above sea level and 1,335 feet on its base. The base is 
1 league (2.7 miles) long in a northwest to southeast direction. It is covered 
with pines up to the summit, which can be easily ascended on the north side ; 
on the south there are high perpendicular cliffs. The Siguanea, Indios, and 



13 

Cisterna rivers rise on this range. It is 5 leagues (13.5 miles) from the town of 
Nueva Gerona and 2f (7 miles) from Siguanea Bay. Daguilla is 1,476 feet above 
sea level and 1,290 upon its base. Its figure is that of a cone with the base \ 
league (1* miles) in diameter. The northern part is covered with woods half 
way to the summit. In these woods may be found the Lagetta lintearia. The 
other parts of this range are covered with pasture lands and its ascent on the 
south side is very difficult. The Caballos Sierra is 1,074 feet above sea level. 
The foot of the sierra is 2,400 varas (about l£ miles) from east to west from the 
Sierra de Casas River and 50 varas (11^ feet) above sea level. This range is 
accessible only on the northwest side and on the southeast, there being perpen- 
dicular cliffs almost everywhere, especially on the west. It is entirely covered 
with woods, and on the east side good timber for ship and house building may 
be found. The trees which are most abundant on the east are the yayas, 
guairajes, robles, cedar, sabicues, etc. This sierra runs NNW. and SSE. and in 
this direction is 3,163 castilian varas (1=0.914 U. S. yard) long, occupying a 
space of 12^ caballerias (416 acres) . Marbles of various colors and qualities 
constitute part of this range. The Casas Sierras are two ranges running from 
north to south 1 league, being divided by a level and red stretch of land 350 
varas (972 feet) wide. The western part of this valley is rather broken, some 
creeks being formed which empty into Muertos Creek. The Casas del Sur 
Sierra is 4,037 castilian varas (1=0.914 U. S. yard) from the town of Nueva 
Gerona. Its base has a length from north to south of 2,534 varas (586 feet) and 
a width from east to west of 1,192 (311 feet). Its elevation above sea level 
is 1,035 feet. It is covered with trees of the same kind as are found on the 
Caballos Sierra. It is inaccessible on the north and northwest, but may easily 
be ascended on the south and east. On the north it has two cliffs, the sides of 
which are perpendicular. Between them there is a stretch of land containing 
about i caballeria (17 acres) called " Los Hondones," which is entered by a very 
narrow neck. This place is naturally inclosed by high cliffs, the trees and vege- 
tation being exuberant. The eastern cliff is 903 feet above sea level and 876 
varas (2,433 feet) distant from the principal peak. That of the west is of the 
same height. The mass of the mountain is clayey, as is the Sierra de Caballos, 
and on the summit may be found an abundance of loose carbonate of lime. The 
Casas del Norte Sierra is 924 feet high, rising almost perpendicularly from level 
ground. It is inaccessible from almost every side. It consists of four peaks 
running from north to south. The first, on the north, is the lowest, and the 
height of the others increases progressively. Useful woods can be found at the 
foot of the mountain and halfway to the summit, but are not as abundant as on 
the other mountains referred to. At the foot of the mountain, on the south- 
east, there are in the rainy season some small lakes, formed by the water from 
the sierras and adjoining plateaus. These lakes dry up after the rainy season is 
over. Of the other elevations of the island, the only ones worthy of mention 
are the Sierra Pequena, south of that of Caballos, with good woods ; the Columpo 
Sierra, consisting of six peaks and masses of blue and white marble, where there 
was an intention of establishing fortifications, commanding, as it does, the 
Columpo and Bibijagua lakes, and the Bibijagua Sierra, covered with woods to 
the summit ; to the northwest of the latter is situated the morillo of Bibijagua. 
The principal and only navigable rivers of the island are the Santa Fe, Casas, 
and Nuevas. 

MINERAL SPRINGS. 

The mineral springs, for which the island has a world-wide rep- 
utation, judged from official and individual certification as to 



14 

curative properties and results of the waters, are remarkable, 
especially in pulmonary, rheumatic, and throat affections. 

A chemical analysis shows the waters to be impregnated with 
oxygen and carbonic acid gases, chloride of sodium, sulphate of 
lime, carbonate of lime, iron, magnesia, chloride of calcium, nitrate 
of lime, silex, and extractic organic matter. Temperature of water 
82° F. The regimen of treatment is two baths of a quarter of an 
hour each and four glasses, taken inwardly, per day. The baths 
are erected over the springs. The testimonials of the beneficial 
effects of bathing and drinking are numerous", among others being 
a case of bronchial trouble requiring caustic treatment of the 
throat which was cured in ten days and without a recurrence of 
the complaint. It is claimed that the waters rival Saratoga in the 
United States. 

CLIMATE. 

The climate is described as "delicious, the air pure and balmy 
and, notwithstanding the island being surrounded by water, is 
considered dry. The winds coming from the sea and passing over 
the pine forests are gentle and invigorating." The year is divided 
into two seasons. During the wet (lluviosa), or summer, the rains 
begin early in June and last until October, seldom more than two 
hours in the afternoon, and are accompanied by thunder and light- 
ning. The greatest rainfall is in May, June, and July, although 
there is no month entirely free from rain. During this wet season 
about two-thirds of the precipitation of the year is received. The 
day is usually clear until 10 a. m., after which it is showery until 
night. The nights are clear. 'The hottest hours are from 10 to 12 
a. m. About 2.30 p. m. the breeze (la virazon) blowing in from 
the sea moderates the temperature. At night the copious dews 
contribute to the luxuriance of vegetation. 

The dry season (seca), or winter, extends from October to June, 
with occasional visitations from November to February of los nortes 
(cold winds blowing from the north) lasting about forty-eight hours, 
when the temperature falls to 50, but is not as uncomfortable 
as the March winds in the States. This season is not entirely 
without precipitation, the days of rain numbering about one- 
third of the wet season. The annual rainfall ranges from 50 to 52 
inches, or less than on the Gulf Coast of the States. The average 
rainy days is 10 in the month, and the average humidity for the 
year 75 per cent. 

The annual temperature of Habana, less than 90 miles in a. 
straight line north, is, mean maximum 82-|- to 84° F., mean mini- 
mum 71°. The highest temperature on record is 100.6° and lowest 
49.6°. The mean annual temperature is 75°. The heat is oppres- 
sive on account of the moisture. The prevailing winds of the Isle 



10 Cables. S 



O 



Sea Mile. 



S IG UAN-EA 



W 




ISLE OF PINES— PUERTO PRANCES. 

Anchorage (approx.): Latitude 21° 34' 30" N., longitude 83° 11' 11" W. Soundings in fathoms. 



15 

of Pines are the northeast trades, which blow with but little varia- 
tion throughout the year, rendering the nights cool both in winter 
and summer. 

The range of temperature between summer and winter rarely 
exceeds a mean of 11°. 

Hurricanes are less frequent than in Cuba. In March, April, 
or May slight earthquakes are sometimes felt. The most damaging 
hurricanes occurred in 1774, 1841, 1846, 1865, 1870, 1876, 1885, and 
1894, and earthquakes, especially in the eastern portion of the 
mainland, principally in Santiago de Cuba, in 1776, 1842, and 1852. 

The "Derrotero de las Antillas," referring to the climatic condi- 
tions, says : 

The climate of Pinos is among the healthiest known. No yellow fever, nor 
cholera, which in former years decimated the population of Cuba, ever made its 
appearance here. Although south of Cuba, its temperature is lower on account 
of the winds which are always blowing. From all parts, from Cuba as well as 
from the United States, the sick come to be cured by the pure air and beneficial 
waters of its springs and creeks. 

BAYS AND HARBORS. 

Cape Frances, at the extreme point of a rocky crescent-shaped 
peninsula extending into the ocean, forms the spacious bay and 
anchorage of Siguanea on the southwest. A small key connected 
with the point is the home of numbers of enormous crocodiles 
(rhombifer. Bibron) known under the Cuban name "caiman." 
On the shores of the point are found great quantities of rare and 
beautiful shells and coral. . •. 

From this anchorage vessels drawing 20 feet can pass northward 
around the island as far as Nueva Gerona inside the keys that lie 
some 6 miles off the coast. From Frances to Indian Point to the 
northeast it is 16 miles and trends inland 18 miles. The bay has 
a depth from If fathoms (10£ feet) to 5i fathoms (33 feet). The 
ship channel referred to is entirely protected from the seaward 
side of the Indian keys. 

Estero del Pino is an indentation in the extreme projection about 
the center of the western coast of the Isle of Pines, and is fed by a 
small stream which rises in the vicinity of San Jose, a village on 
the western slope of the sierra of the same name, and at the ter- 
minus of the trail extending from Nueva Gerona west to Santa 
Teresa and Las Nuevas, thence SSW. to San Jose. From this 
point a road is projected along the western and southwestern base 
of Sierra de San Jose to Canada, in the sierra of that name, an 
important road center in the southwestern part of the island. 

The land in this vicinity conforms to the general topography of 
the country and has patches of soil suitable to the cultivation of 
the staples of the island. 



16 

The estuary has two mouths, that on the north 1 foot deep and 
111 feet wide, the other, on the sonth, 3 feet deep and about 140 
yards wide. In the vicinity, along the shore, are salt swamps 
and lakes. 

On the southern coast, which is rocky and dangerous, is the 
small harbor of Carapachivey, on a pathway on rocky ledges. 

On the northwest coast is the small shallow bay of Barcos, and 
on the southeast coast the small bay of Cienaga. (See Topography.) 

The only two landings — Nueva Gerona, on the Rio Sierra de 
Casas, and Jucaro, on the Rio Santa Fe — are accessible to vessels 
drawing 5 feet of water, owing to the shallowness of the bars at 
the river mouth. 

The directions referring to the anchorage of Puerto Frances 
are intended for sailing vessels and based upon the idea that 
such vessels may have to get under way suddenly with an 
unfavorable wind. For other vessels a better anchorage is found 
in the bight north of Point Pedernales, with that point bearing 
S. 3° W. true and in from 5 to 9 fathoms of water. This anchor- 
age has been repeatedly occupied by United States vessels and 
found very satisfactory, the holding ground being found good all 
over this part of the bight. 

Carapachivey Cove, on the south coast, approximate position 
latitude 21° 26' 45" K, longitude 82° 55' 39"'W., is of considerable 
size, affording a safe and commodious anchorage well sheltered to 
the northward between west-northwest and east-southeast and 
offering a convenient refuge for vessels of any size from northerly 
gales. The bottom is of hard coral and holding ground is not 
good enough for strong onshore winds. The soundings range 
from 3 to 8 feet near the shore, 10 to 30 feet in the center, and 
from 30 to 75 feet at the entrance to the cove. 

The cove may be found by bringing the middle and largest of 
three prominent peaks in the interior of the Isle of Pines to bear 
about N. 8° 30' E. true and standing in on this bearing. It may 
further be recognized by a large and conspicuous Cuban house on 
the northwestern side of the cove. This house is surrounded by 
cocoanut trees, and near it are five other cocoanut trees in a row. 

A good anchorage may be found With the Cuban house on the 
northwest side of the cove bearing about 1ST. 17° W. true, and the 
eastern point of the cove S. 53° E. true. 

In the northeastern part of the cove is a small anchorage, marked 
by stakes, where fishing vessels find good shelter in 8 feet of water. 

The tides are reported to have a range of from 2 to 2£ feet. 

No supplies of water can be had here. 

About 3 miles to the eastward of Carapachivey is another cove 
closed by a chain of rocks, visible some distance offshore. 



17 

A recent hyd.rograph.ic examination shows that the line of reefs 
which extends along the whole southern border of the Jardines 
and Jardinillos makes a pronounced dip to the southward. In 
this longitude the reef is from 2 to 3 miles farther off the cays 
than is indicated on existing charts. The cays are themselves 
about 3 miles farther south than charted. 

The reef, as it recedes on either side of this section, has rather 
more water and breaks less conspicuously, so that a vessel standing 
in from the southward upon this most advanced point of the reef, 
or observing it from that side, seems to have to do with an isolated 
reef. 

A large number of lines of soundings were run over an area 
some 10 miles square extending east, west, and south of this point. 
There is no other shoal in the vicinity. 

The bank all along this part of the reef lies from i to f mile off 
the breakers, soundings beginning in 15 and 17 fathoms at the 
edge of the bank. The breakers can be plainly seen at a distance 
of several miles. 

COMMUNICATIONS. 

The United States railroad systems having terminals at south 
Atlantic and Gulf ports are in touch with the island via Habana 
as follows : 

Pennsylvania Railroad and southern connections via Tampa or 
Miami to Habana. 

Louisville and Nashville Railroad and steamers from Pensacola, 
also from New Orleans, and steamship line to Habana. 

From Habana south by railway, 25 miles, to Batabano, two* 
hours ; thence to Santa Fe and Nueva Gerona by weekly steamer.. 
The entire trip consumes about ten hours. Also weekly connec- 
tions with* other points on the south coast. 

Joint rates, concurred in by all the lines interested, are as 
follows : 

From New York or Philadelphia, Pa., Pennsylvania Railroad to 
Washington and via southern connections, Washington Southern 
Railway and Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad to 
Richmond; Atlantic Coatt Line to Charleston and Plant System 
to Port Tampa, or Plant System to Jacksonville, and Florida 
East Coast Railway to Miami ; Port Tampa or Miami via Penin- 
sular and Occidental Steamship Company (single rate), $54.50. 

From Habana , Cuba, to Batabano by railroad, thence to Nueva 
Gerona, Isle of Pines, by steamer, $10.50 (gold); the rate from 
Washington to Habana, $54.50. 

The Louisville and Nashville System affords through rail con- 
nections from Cincinnati, Louisville, or St. Louis to Pensacola, 



18 

connecting with the Louisville and Nashville Steamship Company 
at Pensacola, Fla., or the steamship line from New Orleans, La., 
to Habana, Cuba, thence to Nueva Gerona via Batabano. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 

NUEVA GERONA, ISLE OF PINES, TO POINTS ON THE MAINLAND OF THE 
UNITED STATES. 



From Nueva Gerona to- 



Miles. 



Batabano, Cuba, water -_ 54 

Habana via Batabano, water, 54 miles, rail, 36 miles ._ 90 

From Habana {Distance from Habana to points named in United States add 90 
miles distance from Nueva Gerona to. Habana via Batabano) . 





United Stages. 
Distance via 
Port Tampa. 


United States. 
Distance via 
New York. 


Cuba. 
Distance by — 


Remarks. 




Kail. 


Water. 


Rail. 


Water. 


Rail. 


Water. 




To— 


603 


337 














388 
188 


1,350 
1,350 










1,056 


337 










36 








1,474 


337 


217 

411 

739 

847 

912 

757 

584 

1,937 

1,268 

662 

3,149 

825 
995 


1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
2,469 

1,350 
1,350 




Buffalo N T 








Charleston, S. C* — 
Chattanooga, Tenn 


504 
741 
1, 334 
1,079 
1,323 
2,120 
1,539 
1,340 
3,571 

1,160 
249 


337 

337 

337 

*337 

337 

*337 

*337 

337 

* 1,456 

*337 
337 




738 


* 738 miles direct by water. 














*Via Atlanta, Ga. 
















*Via Atlanta, Ga. 








* Via Atlanta, Ga. 








*Via Atlanta, Ga. 


Dvea, Alaska 
Indianapolis, Ind — 






*Via Chicago, 111., and Seattle, 






Wash. 
* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 












87 








3,229 
1,157 


8,648 
1,350 

> 




*Via Nagasaki. Japan. 


Memphis, Tenn 


* 1,021 


337 






* Via Atlanta, Ga. 




240 






* 1,419 
892 
1,244 
2,653 
1,623 
1,153 


337 

337 

*337 

*337 

337 

*337 


997 

998 

2,435 

1, 405 

91 


1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 




* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 








* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 








* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 


Ogden, Utah 
Omaha, Nebr.* 
Philadelphia, Pa 






* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 






* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 






* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 




337 




Portland, Oreg 


*3,442 
886 
1,442 
3,352 
389 
1,210 
1,744 
1,016 
1,126 


337 
337 
337 
' 337 
*337 
337 
337 
337 
337 


3,224 

343 

1,918 

3, 229 

840 

1,065 

1,322 

228 

118 


1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 
1,350 




* Via Jacksonville, Fla. 








San Antonio, Tex — 

San Francisco, Cal 

Savannah, Ga 


















* 705 miles direct by water. 
















Washington, D. C — 
Wilmington, Del 





* 











The cienaga in the south is inaccessible except by footpath on 
the land side and by sail from Nueva Gerona. 

CABLE, TELEGRAPH, AND TELEPHONE. 

The nearest cable and telegraph station in commanication with 
the United States is Batabano, 65 miles on the mainland of Cuba, 
reached by steamer. A telephone line connects Nueva Gerona and 
Santa Fe with a projected extension to Jucaro. 



19 

ROADS AND TRAILS. 

Several roads or trails extend to all parts of the island, begin- 
ning at Nueva Gerona; one south to Santa Fe, and thence contin- 
ning across the eastern, end of Cienaga Lagoon, communicates 
with the south coast at Punta Brava. Another from Nueva Gerona 
and still another from Santa Fe unite and terminate on the north- 
eastern shore of Siguanea Bay. From these main lines branch 
roads or trails extend to the villages of the interior. 

The Sierra de los Cristales, or Crystal Hill, an elevated summit 
about the center of the island 12 miles from Santa Fe, is reached 
over a good road through a wild but picturesque country alter- 
nating between beautiful meadows and pine forests. The sides of 
the hill are barren and rocky and without vegetation. From its 
summit may be seen Nueva Gerona to the north, the Sierras 
Daquilla and de la Canada screening the great swamps on the east 
and west, and over intervening hills and valleys the blue ocean 
stretching toward the Spanish Main of old. 

POPULATION AND TOWNS. 

The inhabitants of the island are Spanish and colored, and 
exhibit in their intercourse with strangers a dignified and kindly 
spirit. For many years the Isle of Pines was a penal colony for 
Cuban revolutionists. The language is Spanish. 

There are 114 city properties on record, valued at $22,800. 

The island has two towns and one port. 

Nueva Gerona (New Gerona). — This town, the capital and 
second town in size, lies on the left bank of the Sierra de las Casas 
River, 2 miles above its mouth on the north coast. It is advanta- 
geously situated on a picturesque plateau, between the Caballos 
and Casas mountains at the base of the latter, about 30 feet above 
the sea and the swamps at the mouth of the river. It is well 
drained and, exposed to the constant breezes from the sea, free 
from malarial influence. Its water comes from a magnesian 
spring, said to be very beneficial in cases of stomach trouble, and 
baths have been built into which water from the same spring is 
conducted. The town has an American hotel, an ice plant, and 
telephone connection with Santa Fe and a projected extension to 
Jucaro. 

Just outside of the town, on an open plateau, are the barracks, 
a large stone building with interior courts, capable of accommo- 
dating comfortably 200 American troops, and of affording shelter, 
if necessary, to double that number. 

There is a wharf at the town at which the steamer from Bata- 
bano lands once a week; also a church. Population 1,000. In 
the taking of the American census of 1899 it was an important 
center of enumeration. It also is an American post office. 



20 

Santa Fe. — On both banks of the river of the same name, 15 
miles SSE. of Nueva Gerona, of which it is officially a suburb (bar- 
rio), and has an American post office. There are some fine drives 
and walks in the vicinity. The country is somewhat flat in the 
neighborhood and more rolling inland. The port of the town, Jucaro, 
is about 7 miles distant. Santa Fe is a place of 1,050 inhabitants, 
two hotels, a church, thermal baths of about blood temperature, 
medicinal springs of magnesia and iron, favorably known and 
patronized from Habana in the summer. A consulting surgeon, 
under Spanish jurisdiction, resided here for the benefit of invalids. 

In the United States census enumeration of the inhabitants in 
1899 this town was an important subdivision. 

Jucaro, the port of Santa Fe, on the river of that name, at a 
distance of 7 miles, is connected by a fine road. A steamer touches 
here once a week. The means of communication with Santa Fe is 
by the volante or ox cart. 

TOWNS, VILLAGES, AND HACIENDAS. 

In addition to these three important centers are twenty-six 
villages or haciendas scattered throughout the island, as follows : 

Acosta. — A fishing village on the peninsula of Port Frances, 
near the west shore of Siguanea Bay, in the extreme southwest. 

Almacijos. — A village at the headwaters of the western tribu- 
tary of the Santa Fe River west by south and a few miles above 
the town of that name. 

Asciento de Santa Fe. — A hamlet on a road southeast of the 
town and on the right bank of the river of that name. Thermal 
springs which line the bank of the stream are also found in this 
vicinity. 

Caleta Grande. — A hamlet on the Caribbean Sea or the south- 
west shore of the Puerto Frances Peninsula. It was a subdivision 
of the census enumeration district of 1899. 

Canada. — A village at the base of the sierra of that name on 
the main road to Rosario and Nueva Gerona in the west part of 
the island. 

Carapachivey. — An isolated fishing village about the center 
of the salt lagoon on the south, reached from the highland by the 
rocky ledges which rise above the soft surrounding surface. 

Carboneras. — A subdivision of the census enumeration district 
of 1899. 

Caudal. — A fishing village in the eastern part of the salt lagoon 
on the south, on the pathway from the highland to Punta Brava on 
the south coast. 



21 

Cuchilla Alta. — A subdivision of the census enumeration dis- 
trict of 1899. 

Jorobado. — A fishing village in the salt marsh near the inlet of 
the same name on the* south coast. 

Jucaro. — See "Population and towns." 

Hospital. — A hamlet in the sierra foothills about the center of 
the island between the Santiago and Jagua rivers. 

Lacunagua. — A village at the forks of the Santa Fe and San 
. Pedro road in the south central part of the highlands. 

Las Nuevas. — A village in the extreme northwest, near the 
coast, on the road midway between Nueva Gerona and San Jose\ 

Nueva Gerona. —See ' ' Population and towns. " 

Llevat. — A fishing village near Cape Frances on the peninsula 
of that name on the west shore of Siguanea Bay in the southwest. 

Palma Alta. — A fishing village on the pathway across the east- 
ern part of the Cienaga between Caudal and Punta Brava on the 
south coast. 

Rosario. — An important road center in the northwestern part 
near the right bank of the River del Callejon. 

San Jose. — On the west coast road near the head of a small 
stream entering the Estuary del Pino. It is surrounded by a fer- 
tile country. 

San Juan. — At the headwaters of a stream of the same name at 
the terminus of a road southeast from Santa Fe near the coast. 

San Pedro. — On the stream of that name. It is an important 
road center in the southwest part of the island leading to the land- 
ing at Casimbas on the east shore of Siguanea Bay. 

San Antonio. — On the right bank of the Rio de los Indios 
near its mouth on the north coast. 

San Francisco de las Piedras.— About the center of the island 
at the junction of four roads from Nueva Gerona (north), Santa Fe 
(east by south), Lacunagua (south), Canada (southwest), and Las 
Nuevas (northwest). 

Santa Fe. — See "Population and towns." 

Santa Rita de la Jagua. — On the borders of the Cienaga at 
the forks of the main Punta Brava road, across the salt lagoon to 
Santa Fe (northeast) and San Pedro (west). 

Santa Rosalia. — In the north central part, on the road between 
Santa Fe and Nueva Gerona, nearer the latter point. 

Santa Teresa. — In the northwest, on the road from Nueva 
Gerona to Las Nuevas, about a mile east of the latter. 

Seiba. — About the center of the island, at the base of the sierra 
of that name, near the junction of the San Francisco de las Piedras 
and Lacunagua roads to Santa Fe. 



22 

Sierra de Caballos. — A hamlet in the hills of that name in 
the extreme northeast, and a subdivision in the census enumera- 
tion district of the island. 

Sierra de Casas. — A hamlet in the north at the junction of 
the San Francisco de las Piedras and Las Nuevas roads to San 
Gerona and a subdivision in the census enumeration district of 1899. 

CENSUS. 

The report of the census of Cuba, 1899, War Department, office 
Director Census of Cuba, gives the following results with respect 
to the Isle of Pines, a municipal district of the Province of Habana : 

Total Spanish' enumeration December 31, 1887 2,040 

Total United States enumeration, 1899 3,199 

Total gain 12 years 1,159 

By wards and by cities, 1899, Isle of Pines district : 

Calete Grande 315 

Santa Fe 1,050 

Remainder of district 1, 834 

Total 3,199 

Rural population with area and density by municipal districts : 

Rural population 3, 199 

Area in square miles (986 square miles, Div. I. A., 1902) 840 

Density per square mile (3. 24, Div. I. A. , 1902) 3.8 

Sex, general, nativity and color, all classes : 

Male '. 1,782 

Female 1,417 

Total . 3,199 

Native white : 

Male '. 1,309 

Female 1,171 

Total 2,480 

Foreign white : 

Male 185 

Female 13 

Total 198 

Percentage of population by sex, general nativity, and color : 
Sex — 

Male 55.7 

Female 44.3 

Nativity and color — 

Native whites 77. 5 

Foreign whites 6. 2 

Colored :'_ 16.3 



23 

\ge and sex : 

Under 5 years — 

Male 195 

Female 158 

5 to 17 years — 

Male : 547 

Female ___ 528 

18 to 20 years — 

Male 106 

Female , 97 

21 to 44 years — 

Male---- ----- 671 

Female l - 473 

45 years and over — 

Male...- 263 

Female 161 

Total 3,199 

Birthplace : 

Cuba ..-- 2,990 

Spain 195 

Other countries 14 

Total 3,199 

Citizenship : 

Cuban 2,818 

Spanish 32 

In suspense 334 

Other citizenship 15 

Total 3,199 

Males 21 years of age and over, according to citizenship, literacy, and edu- 
cation : 
Whites born in Cuba — 
Cuban citizenship — 

Can neither read nor write 316 

Can read but not write 2 

Can read and write 283 

With superior education.-- 13 

Spanish citizenship, can read and write 2 

Citizenship in suspense, can read and write 1 

Total 617 

Whites born in Spain — 

Spanish citizenship — 

Can neither read nor write 1 

Can read and write 6 

With superior education 1 

Citizenship in suspense — 

Can neither read nor write 47 

Can read but not write 2 

Can read and write 103 

With superior education 4 

Total 164 



24 



Males 21 years of age and over, according to citizenship, etc. — Continued. 
Whites born in other countries — 

Foreign and unknown citizenship — 

Can neither read nor write 2 

Can read and write 1 

Total „... 3 

Colored — 

Can neither read nor write 110 

Can read but can not write 2 

Can read and write 33 

Foreign and unknown citizenship, can neither read nor write 5 

Total 150 

Conjugal condition: 

Single 2,184 

Married 774 

Living together as husband and wife by mutual consent 56 

Widowed 184 

Unknown 1 

Total 3,199 

School attendance, literary and superior education : 

Under 10 years of age — 

Attended school 38 

Did not attend school 784 

Ten years of age and over — 

Attended school -...- 37 

Can neither read nor write 1,343 

Can read but can not write. 42 

Can read and write .. 954 

Not stated 1 

Superior education — 

Yes 22 

No 3,177 

Total 3,199 

OCCUPATIONS, CENSUS OP 1899. 





Total 
popula- 
tion. 


Agricul- 
ture, fish- 
eries, and 

mining. 


Trade and 

trans- 
portation. 


Manufac- 
ture and 
mechan- 
ical in- 
dustries. 


Pro- 
fessional 
service. 


Domestic 

and 
personal 
service. 


Without 
gainful 
occupa- 
tion. 


Total 


3,199 


403 


140 


S4 


9 


647 


1,916 






Males 


1,782 
1,417 


403 


138 
o 


S4 


7 
o 


614 
33 


536 




1,380 












2,4S0 


255 


7S 


57 


6 


468 


1,616 






Males 


1,309 
1,171 


255 


77 

1 


57 


5 
1 


464 
4 


451 




1,165 












198 


52 


49 


12 


3 


61 


21 






Males 


185 
13 


52 


48 
1 


12 


2 
1 


60 
1 


11 




10 












521 


96 


13 


15 




118 


279 










288 
233 


96 


13 


15 




90 
28 


74 






205 













25 

Number and size of families : 

Total population 3,199 

Total number of families 572 

Average size, 5.6 persons to a family; of 1 person, 34; 2, 53; 3, 84; 4, 
82; 5, 77; 6, 64; 7, 39; 8, 39; 9, 36; 10, 25; 11 to 15, 30; 16 to 20, 6; 
21 and over, 3. 

Dwellings and families : 

Unoccupied buildings 48 

Occur ied dwellings 546 

Number of families _-- 572 

Persons to a family 5.6 

Persons to a dwelling 5.9 

Families to a dwelling .■ 1 

Disposition of excreta : 

Occupied dwellings 546 

Cesspool 211 

Sewer 4 

None r 319 

Not stated 11 

Agriculture : 

Farm areas, in caballerias (33£ U. S. acres = 1 caballeria). 

Number of farms 94 

Total area 7,030.96 

Area in cultivation, 1899 25.69 

Area cultivated in 1895 14*. 72 

Large timber 1,233.31 

Small timber 93.06 

DEPENDENT ISLANDS. 

The eastern, northern, and western shores of the island are sur- 
rounded by a number of keys, through which the mainland may 
be approached by means of intricate passages only known to the 
local pilots. Although the waters off the Cienaga on the south are 
clear of these coral and sand formations, the Cienaga itself is an 
impassable barrier except by a single causeway to access from that 
direction. 

Piedras, Cayo de. — A key separating the Cienagas (Salt la- 
goons) on the east and west and the line of the causeway between 
the highland and Punta Brava. 

AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES. 

Of the land lying north of the Cienaga, the swamp and low 
ground with mangroves is estimated at 25 per cent ; the savannas 
covered with these mangroves and scrub palmetto at 25 per cent ; 
land of doubtful agricultural value, 10 per cent; rich land, 10 per 
cent ; mountains and steep hills, 5 per cent ; pine lands unsuitable 
for agriculture, 25 per cent. 

Of the land denominated rich, a very small percentage is actually 
under cultivation, but the nature of the growth upon it shows the 



26 

value of the soil. Of the entire surface of the island, but 1 per 
cent is now under cultivation, viz: 117 caballerias, or 3,900 acres 
(1 caballeria = 33^- U. S. acres), in a total of 14,117 caballerias. 

As an example of the wonderful variety of product, a finca or 
farm of less than 33 acres actual cultivation produces coffee, sugar, 
chocolate (cocoa), cocoanuts, plantains, bananas, boniatos (sweet 
potatoes), yuca (cassava), (furnishing laundry starch), malangoes 
(answering for potatoes), rice, beans, lettuce, tobacco, honey, 
fowls, pigs, and cattle; also a few pineapples for home use. 

The rich arable land of the island is not found in large tracts, 
but in scattered patches among the hills — suitable for tobacco 
rather than for sugar plantations. 

The demand for consumption in the island is small, and the 
freight rates to the mainland high, hence the only agricultural 
product that finds a ready market, and commands cash, is tobacco. 

Of this staple the island exported in 1899 about 5,000 bales (of 
100 pounds each). In 1900 the product was less, as the workers 
who had come from Cuba, to escape the war, returned to their old 
homes, where the reputation of the leaf, if not its actual superi- 
ority, gives the laborer who cultivates on shares a larger return 
for his work. Tobacco from this island sells in Habana at the 
highest market rates. The cultivation of sugar in 1900 was con- 
fined to a single estate. 

VEGETABLE PRODUCTS. 

In addition to tobacco, the staple of the island, the following 
vegetable products are raised: Boniato, or sweet potato, which 
has a particularly fine flavor, and with reduced rates to Cuba, 
should become a marketable product; cocoa (chocolate), raised 
only experimentally, but the fruit appears to be fine ; cocoanuts 
yield abundantly, though few trees have been planted. This 
could easily become an article of export. 

Coffee has so far been raised only for experiment, but the 
quality seems to be fair, and with cultivators who understand the 
work good results might be obtained. Manga (answering as 
potato) is grown without irrigation and yields well, fine quality. 
Rice also grows well without irrigation. Sugar cane at present 
raised in the island is for home use only ; the juice is extracted 
by a crude wooden mill and boiled down in a large open kettle, 
making a dark coarse sugar unfit for export. Yuca (used for 
starch) grows without irrigation and yields well. The Indian corn 
(maize) also flourishes. About 112 estates on the island are mostly 
devoted to tobacco raising. Of some products two crops are grown. 

The climate tropical and the soil a mixture of rich loam and 
sand present conditions suitable not only for the cultivation of all 



27 

the products of that zone, but in addition to tobacco, coffee, and 
sugar cane is mentioned rubber. 

The mainland of Mexico and Central America, almost in sight, 
produces some of the best rubber in the world. The conditions of 
soil and climate on the Isle of Pines being the same., it is claimed, 
should make rubber production a profitable industry. The growth 
of gutta-percha, which is generally found in the same zone, would 
also make a particularly valuable addition to the productive wealth 
of the island. For the production of gutta-percha Holland, Great 
Britain, and France have established extensive plantations and 
nurseries in their tropical possessions. 

MINERALS. 

The only mineral product of importance is the marble, which is 
found in the two mountains east and west of New Gerona on the 
north coast. It was worked extensively about thirty years ago, 
the ruins of a steam plant for sawing and polishing the slabs 
showing that much money was put into the enterprise. It is said 
that for reasons of its own the government looked with disfavor 
on the enterprise and to discourage it levied a duty upon the sand 
used in sawing, which was hauled from the shore, a mile from the 
quarry. This imposition killed the enterprise. About twelve 
years ago, a few cargoes of marble blocks were gotten out and 
shipped to Habana to be sawed up and worked there. Since then 
nothing has been done. The marble is of good quality, ranging 
from a good white statuary, through various shades of blue-veined 
stone to marble of a dark gray, also specimens with pinkish color- 
ing. There are in the island no samples of very brilliant polish, 
but, judging from the crystallization of some of the blocks, good 
results should be obtainable with proper methods. The rock 
crystals gathered on the hill of that name are much prized by 
casual visitors. 

The quality of the marble is reported by experts to be suitable 
for the finest statuary, the color being the purest white. Other 
varieties of different hues are suitable for ornamentation and art, 
as they take on an excellent polish. The stone is free from cracks 
and will furnish slabs of any size, the deposits varying from 5 to 25 
feet in thickness. They are also situated to meet all requirements 
of convenient and economical transportation to points of shipment 
on the coast. 

The old workings have done little but step the surface of a cliff 
of weather-worn rock. The amount of material in sight is unlim- 
ited. The old works have a most advantageous location, where a 
short haul over a good road leads to an old pier. 

A good quality of brick clay is found in the island. At ISTew 
Gerona are the ruins of an extensive brickyard whence bricks, 



flooring tiles, and roofing tiles were formerly shipped to Habana. 
Silver and iron are also reported. 

A salt deposit 1,472 feet long lies near Salinas Point. From this 
to the third Salinas Point the land forms large clean salt pits, 
without trees, easy to work, and which increase in width for 
some distance. 

FORESTS. 

The' flora of the island combines many of the varieties of Flor- 
ida with the large hard- wood trees of Central America and Mexico, 
and singularly the pine, a characteristic of the temperate zone, 
which grows over the greater part of the island. 

In the forests of this promising little isle of the Antilles are 
found extensive groves of the Oreodoxa regio (royal palm) and 
twenty- six other varieties of the same numerous family — the ma- 
hogany, lignum-vitge, coco wood, from which reed instruments 
are made ; cedrela odorata, used in the manufacture of cigar boxes 
and the lining of cabinet woods, also producing an aromatic oil dis- 
tilled from its wood ; and fustic or logwood, a dyestuff the product 
of cholophora, known as yellow or Cuba Avood or old fustic. 

In the swamps on the southern side of the island, accessible only 
"by sea, are found all the mahogany and most of the other valuable 
woods on the island. 

Reclus in his "Universal Geography," Volume XVII, says: 
"All the large trees of the Mexican coast, so remarkable for their 
majestic growth, for the beauty of their foliage, the splendor and 
fragrance of their flowers, reappear on the Cuba seaboard. Over 
thirty species of palms are here met in association with trees such 
as the pine, which would seem so characteristic of the temperate 
zone and which gives its name to the "Pinos" Island, where it is 
found intermingled with palms and mahogany." 

The indigenous trees of the Tropics are found side by side with 
the wild pine from which the island takes its name. 

There are at present two small steam saw mills in the island, one 
in actual running order. There is a large area of pine forests, 
but the logs large enough for sawing are found only in small 
stretches west of the center of the island. The tall pines fur- 
nish for exportation railway ties, telegraph poles, poles for the 
roofs of native Cuban huts and for hanging tobacco during the 
curing process. 

There are no statistics available from which the amount and 
the quality of the hard woods on the southern part of the island 
can be estimated. 

There appears to have been no very regular trade. While much 
fine wood exists it is not of sufficient size and in sufficient quantity 
to warrant the expense of getting it to the water, over the difficult 



29 

rocky ground, in which it grows. The most accessible localities 
have already been culled, and it is said that to take out the best 
timber portable railways will have to be used. After the date of 
the approval of the estimate for forests, 1900-01, the military gov- 
ernor of Cuba created the office of ' ' inspector of forests for the 
Isle of Pines." 

One of the principal sources of wealth is lumber, eleven forest 
grants having been made to the year 1900. 

FRUITS. 

The cultivated and wild fruits are celebrated for their quality 
and grow abundantly, as follows : 

Aguacatb (alligator pear), one of the most popular fruits in 
the Antilles, pear-shaped, of green or purple, and often weighs as 
high as 2 pounds. On account of the pulp being firm and marrow- 
like, it is also known as vegetable marrow or midshipman's butter. 
A very good oil for soap comes from its seed. The tree is an ever- 
green about 25 or 30 feet high. 

Banana (platano). — Many varieties of this well-known fruit 
exist and take the place of bread in all. country families, being- 
eaten raw or cooked in many different ways. 

Caimito. — Some are purple on the outside and others dark 
green. Inside it has a milky fibrous meat, quite sweet and starchy, 
and a number of round black seeds. It grows on a tree. 

Chirimova (cherimoyer, or custard apple). — A heart-shaped 
fruit, quite sweet, with a slightly acid taste and very refreshing. 
It has a scaly exterior and contains, numerous seeds buried in a 
pulp. It is sometimes known as bullock's heart, on account of its 
size and shape. It grows on trees about 25 or 30 feet high. 

Cocoanut (cocoa). — Fruits in bunches of from 12 to 20 on a tree 
from 60 to 90 feet high. The nut when fresh contains nearly 1 
quart of milk, very much esteemed by the natives as a refresh- 
ment. The thick rind or husk surrounding the nut is used in 
making cordage, matting, brushes, bags, etc. A valuable oil is 
obtained from the nut which is well known to commerce. 

Figs (higos) of all kinds grow luxuriantly. 

Granadilla. — A fruit grown on a vine which also bears the 
passion flower. It is generally as large as a child's head. It is 
very much liked by the natives, who use it in making refreshments 
and desserts. The meat is glutinous and contains many small 
seeds. 

Guanabana. — A large fruit about the size of a muskmelon with 
many seeds and fibrous meat having a delicate flavor. Used for 
making refreshments, ices, and preserves. Also eaten in its 
natural state. 



30 

Guava. — A "black, globose, pulpy fruit with an agreeable acid 
flavor, used in making jelly, marmalade, etc. It is largely culti- 
vated in tropical countries, there being two varieties, the red or 
apple-shaped and the white or pear-shaped. 

Lima. — Something like a lime, and has the flavor of the grape. 

Lime (limon) or citrus, resembling a lemon, but smaller; the 
product of the citrus limelta tree. The juice is used in cooling 
beverages in the Tropics, and is especially in demand in summer 
in higher latitudes. It is also boiled and used in fevers. 

Mammee-Sapota. — A tree that yields a fruit the juice of which 
resembles marmalade. It is known locally as the "mamey Colo- 
rado." 

Mamoncillo grows in clusters ; it is a species of plum, tart, and 
has one fibrous pit. 

Mango. — A fruit shaped somewhat like a pear, but attached to 
the tree by the larger end. The meat is fibrous and clings to the 
seed the same as happens with a clingstone peach. It is generally 
eaten in its natural state, but when green is sometimes boiled as 
a vegetable. Its flavor, when ripe, is a combination of apricot and 
pineapple. There are several varieties of this fruit. The tree is 
30 or 35 feet high. 

Maranon.— Similar to a persimmon, heart-shaped, and has a 
heart-shaped seed on the outside which is roasted and eaten as a 
chestnut. 

Oranges. — This fruit of commerce in fine varieties grows abun- 
dantly, both cultivated and wild. 

Papaya (paw-paw). — About 10 inches long, commonly of an 
oblong form, ribbed, and having a thick fleshy rind. It is eaten 
raw, or when green is boiled as a vegetable and is also pickled. 
The tree is about 20 feet high and has large leaves. Meat boiled 
with a small portion of the leaf is made tender, or this can be done 
by simply hanging the meat among the leaves. The seeds are 
used as a vermifuge. 

Pineapple (pina). — Several varieties of this fruit grow in the 
island, and with proper cultivatiou may be a valuable product. 

Sapodillo (plum).— Small brown fruit with a black seed like a 
watermelon, and juice which disappears with incipient decay, when 
the fruit becomes very sugary. 

INDUSTRIES. 

The mechanical industries are tobacco manufacturing, quarry- 
ing, weaving for home consumption, cutting and sawing lumber 
and working into poles and railroad ties, and charcoal burning ; 
also forest products, turpentine, pitch, and tar. Recent returns 
give 54 industrial and commercial establishments. 



31 

Other industries are fishing, the shallow adjacent waters abound- 
ing in fine marketable fish, lobsters, and turtles. 

The raising of horses, which are small but hardy and good road- 
sters, and cattle, much depleted as to numbers at the outbreak of 
the war, is an important occupation, the valleys and hillsides being 
covered with nutritious grasses. Pigs are also raised in large 
numbers, the wild fruits and seeds furnishing abundant food. At 
the close of 1899 there were 4,164 horned cattle, 1,231 horses, 144 
mules, and 3,396 hogs and goats. 

Among the various American enterprises may be mentioned a 
new hotel ; an ice plant ; a dentist's office ; a grocery establishment ; 
blacksmith shop ; turpentine plant ; and orange-growing and truck- 
gardening for United States markets. Prospectors interested in 
other occupations are also looking over the ground. 

FAUNA. 

There are no wild animals which might be classed as game on 
the land. The iguana furnishes some fine specimens. The species 
of reptiles are few and none of them venomous. 

Bird life is chiefly represented by the parrot. There are 200 
varieties of all species. The surrounding waters teem with fish, 
the red snapper being one of the best; 700 varieties known to 
science. 

The manati, or sea cow, abounds in the waters along the coast. 

COMMERCE. 

The exports are tobacco, charcoal, lumber, poles, railway ties, 
tortoise shells, fruits, and parrots, which exist in large numbers. 

The nearest port of entry under the customs system of Cuba is 
Batabano. That town, on the south coast of Habana province, has 
a safe port, well sheltered. 

The statistics of exports and imports of the Isle of Pines are not 
given separately, but are included in the general tables of the 
entry district. 

COINAGE, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

The value of foreign coins, as expressed in the money of account 
of the United States, is based on the pure metal of such coin of 
standard value. The standard of the Isle of Pines, taken from the 
Island of Cuba, is gold and silver, and the monetary unit the peso. 

Coins : 

Doubloon Dollars, U. S-. 5.017 

Peso (silver).. do 0.600 

Peso (gold) do 0.926 



32 

Weights : 

Arroba .. Pounds, U. S_. 25.3664 

Libra do 1.0161 

Quintal do 101.6100 

Measures : 

Dry- 

Fanaga ...Bushels, U. S.. 1.599 

Liquid — 

Arroba Gallons, U. S~ 4.263 

Linear — 

Cuerda, 8Jvaras -Feet, U. S:. 23f 

Legua Stat, miles, U. S._ 2.672+ 

Vara -Inches, U. S-_ 33.384 

Square — 

Caballeria Cordels.. 576 

Caballeria Acres, U. S.. 33^ 

Cordel Sq. yards, U. S_. 495.40 

Legua Acres.. 4.633 

Cubic — 

Cuerda (cord) Feet, IT. S~ 128 

CIVIL GOVERNMENT. 

The island was discovered by Columbus in 1494, who named it 
"La Evangelista." In the administration of Cuba it became a 
dependency of Habana, of which province it is a municipality 
(district). 

It constitutes an ayuntamiento or municipal district of the 
judicial district of Bejucal, province of Habana, instituted in 1880, 
with its seat at Nueva Gerona. It was reorganized in July, 1899, 
under United States military control. 

The ayuntamiento owns two city properties, a bathing establish- 
ment, 8i caballerias (283 acres) of land formerly held by the gov- 
ernment, and the cemetery of Nueva Gerona, the value of which 
is estimated at $8,353. 

In June, 1900, there were eight schools with 155 scholars on the 
island. 

POLITICAL STATUS. 

The definition of the status of the Isle of Pines in adjustment of 
the relations between the United States and Cuba is contained in 
that portion of the act making appropriation for the support of the f 
Army for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1902', approved March 2, 
1901 (U. S. Stats. L., 56th Cong., 1899-1901, vol. 31, pp. 897-8), which 
provided that ' ' in the fulfillment of the declaration contained in 
the joint resolution of Congress April 20, 1898, for the recognition 
of the independence of the people of Cuba, leaving the government 
and control of the island to its people," no action shall be taken 
until "a government shall have been established in said island 
under a constitution which either as a part thereof or in an ordi- 
nance appended thereto shall define the future relations of the 



33 

United States with Cuba substantially" under the following heads : 
I. Conditions of Treaties; II. Public debt; III. Intervention by 
the United States ; IV. Acts of United States during military oc- 
cupancy ratified ; V. Sanitary measures; VI. Isle of Pines to be 
omitted from the proposed constitutional boundaries of Cuba, the 
title thereto being left to future adjustment by treaty; VII. Coal- 
ing stations ; VIII. By way of further assurance the foregoing to 
be made part of a treaty. 

HISTORICAL EVENTS. 

Among the historical events off the island was the attack by a 
Spanish fleet of the expedition under the celebrated British Ad- 
miral Drake in the sixteenth century returning from Costa Rica. 
The Englishman, after a desperate encounter against great odds, 
managed to escape with the loss of one vessel. 

This island in the days of the buccaneers was the headquarters of 
the pirates in their forays upon the islands of the Antilles and tha 
Spanish Main. 

PUBLIC LAND, TAXES, AND DUES. 

A report by the collector of customs at Batabano to the chief 
at Habana, February 22, 1899, gives the following particulars on 
public lands, former taxes, and dues : 

The only land belonging to the state is embraced in 63 lots, each 
about 50 acres, scattered within 3 miles of Nueva Gerona. These 
lots appear to have been left after the land had been picked over, 
as they are generally in the worst localities and practically worth- 
less, containing nothing but mangrove scrub, dwarf palmettos, 
and thin pine grass. A few of the better lots are in use as small 
farms, the occupants paying, it is alleged, a nominal rent to the 
hacienda at Habana (no records on this point exist in the island). 

No record of dues paid to the Crown for the privilege of export- 
ing timber can be found. It is understood that contributions were 
arbitrarily levied from time to time by the military governor of 
the island. These "contributions" or "gratifications" were paid, 
it is said, to secure immunity from official obstruction in the 
going and coming of vessels from the inaccessible points at which 
the lumber was gathered. It is presumable that some of these 
contributions were used for the benefit of the island, but no record 
appears of the amount or disposition. 

The governor of the island immediately collected dues for the 
slaughtering of cattle and the selling of meats, and also from stores 
and shops of all kinds. To meet the difficulty of beef supply at a 
wood-choppers' camp the governor devised a system of dues based 
upon the amount of charcoal and cord wood exported, which dues 
were levied in lieu of those legally authorized. 



34 

In accessible camps or "cuttings" the amount of export was 
actually ascertained; in other "cuttings" more inaccessible a lump 
sum per month was exacted, based on the number of men 
employed. 

The quantity of mangrove and other scrubby wood available 
for charcoal and cord wood is practically unlimited, all the coast 
of the island and the keys to the north being covered with this 
growth, and the state does not appear to have collected any dues 
for the privilege of cutting. The dues seem to have been simply 
in the nature of town taxes, levied on wood-choppers' camps in 
order that they should not, by leaving the established towns, 
escape the burden of taxation. 



APPENDIX. 



PHYSIOGRAPHY OF THE ISLE OF PIKES. 

[By C. Willard Hayes, U. S. Geological Survey.] 

The essential elements in the physiography of this island are (1) a low swampy 
coastal plain, (2) a broad gently undulating interior plain, and (3) ridges and 
hills rising abruptly from the central plain. 

(1) At a few points along the north side of the island the ridges reach the 
coast, and the waves have produced sea cliffs. Elsewhere about its eastern, 
northern, and western sides (as well as in a belt crossing the island south of its 
center and forming the great cienaga) the island is bordered by a narrow strip 
of lowland, generally swampy, and covered with a dense growth of mangroves. 
The shore is often formed by a low sandy beach, back of which is the mangrove 
swamp. This coastal fringe corresponds in all particulars with the many low 
sandy keys which border the southern coast of Cuba from Cape Cruz westward. 
It varies in width from a mere fringe only a few yards in width to a strip 
several miles broad. Wherever it is present it shows that the island is increasing 
in area. 

The southern coast of the island is entirely different from that above described. 
Facing upon the deep Caribbean Sea, where the waves have full unobstructed 
sweep, conditions are favorable for coral growth, and this portion of the coast 
is fringed with coral reefs. 

The island has in comparatively recent geologic time stood slightly lower than 
now. The land now forming the coastal plain was then submerged, and the 
waves cut a terrace about 50 feet above the present sea level. Nueva Gerona is 
built on such a terrace, and at various places back of that town the old sea cliff 
may be observed. It is prominent about the northern ends of both the Sierras 
de las Casas'and los Caballos. It is also seen on the road from Santa Fe to 
Jucaro, and a further examination would doubtless show its presence at many 
other points along the northern and eastern sides of the island. It seems, how- 
ever, to be entirely absent from the southwestern portion. 

(2) The interior plain occupies probably 75 per cent of the entire surface of 
the island. ' It varies in altitude between 75 and 110 feet, with a few portions 
possibly rising to 150 feet above sea level. The surface consists of a succession 
of gentle swells and depressions, barely enough to relieve the monotony of a 
dead level. The streams, which are not numerous, flow in broad depressions 
with gentle slopes. In these depressions the channels are cut from 5 to 15 feet 
in depth, with steep banks, and proportionate to the volume of the streams. 
No well developed flood plains are encountered and the streams appear to fill 
these channels in time of flood. All the streams, except near the coast, show 
rock in place in their channels. 

This plain is covered for the most part with fine quartz gravel. The smaller 
pebbles, from i to f inch in diameter, are well rounded and often highly polished. 
The larger pebbles are more angular with increasing size, and those over 2 inches 
in diameter have their angles scarcely at all rounded. This gravel is everywhere 
deep red or black, and the iron and manganese which produce the color have 
not only stained the surface of the pebbles but have penetrated entirely through, 

(35) 



36 

often giving them a metallic luster. In addition to coloring the pebbles, the 
iron has in many places cemented them into large masses of conglomerate. 

So far as observed this interior plain is everywhere underlain by highly 
crystalline mica schists. The foliation of the schist strikes nearly north and 
south, and has a vertical or steep easterly dip. Its surface is always deeply 
weathered except where streams have cut down and exposed the fresh rock in 
their channels. The weathered rock passes insensibly upward into the subsoil 
and that into the surface gravels showing that both are residual, that is, derived 
directly from the underlying rocks. The schist contains numerous quartz veins 
and stringers, and it is from these that the gravel is derived. The rounding of 
the quartz fragments is probably due not to the rolling action of waves or 
stream currents but to the beating of rain. By this means only the smaller 
fragments, which can be easily moved by the rain, are rounded, while the larger 
fragments retain their original angular forms. 

The soil covering this interior plain varies from barren red gravel to dark- 
gray sandy loam. The former covers the swells, while the latter is found in 
the intervening depressions. Sometimes there is a layer of gravel beneath a 
few inches of sandy loam at the surface, a condition which exercises an im- 
portant influence on the agricultural value of the land. 

Practically the entire surface of the interior plain is occupied by forests and 
savannahs or prairies. The character of the timber depends on variations in 
soil. Where the ferruginous gravel is abundant only pines are found. The 
trees are small, rarely attaining a greater size than 14 or 16 inches in diameter 
and 16 to 18 feet to the main branches. The best timber is found in the west 
central portion of the island. In the shallow depressions, where the surface 
soil is a sandy loam, the pines are largely replaced by.palmettos. The character 
of the forests is shown by the accompanying photographs. They are generally 
open and quite free from undergrowth of any kind except grass. There is no 
sharp line between forest and savannah, and the latter often contain scattered 
pine trees or groups of palmettos. 

The first suggestion regarding the origin of this plain is that it is due to 
marine erosion, but a careful examination fails to reveal any of the characteristic 
marks of wave action. As stated above, the superficial gravel does not owe its 
rounded form to the action of waves, and no traces of marine deposits are found 
on the plain. It has undoubtedly been produced by the long-continued action 
of subaerial forces, which are everywhere tending to degrade the land surface 
to sea level. Unlike Cuba, the Isle of Pines has maintained a stable position 
with reference to sea level for a very long time, long enough for the atmos- 
pheric agencies to reduce highlands of hard schist nearly to base level. It has 
not recently been elevated to any considerable altitude, for its streams are flow- 
ing in rock channels — not excavated and alluvial filled channels as would other- 
wise be the case. 

(3) Approaching the Isle of Pines from the northward the first impression one 
gains is that its surface is prevailingly mountainous. This is due to the pres- 
ence of numerous ridges and groups of hills, which rise abruptly from the cen- 
tral plain. When examined near at hand they are found to occupy a relatively 
small proportion of the island's surface, being entirely surrounded and isolated 
by the central plain. They are true monadnocks ; that is, residual masses of 
resistant rock left in high relief by the wearing down of the less resistant sur- 
rounding rocks. 

The Sierras de las Casas, los Caballos, and Pequena are three parallel ridges 
in the northern part of the island, about 2\ or 3 miles apart, and trending nearly 
due north and south. Nueva Gerona lies about midway between the two first 
uamed. The highest points in these ridges are between 1,000 and 1,200 feet. 



37 

They are composed of marble in massive beds dipping steeply toward the east. 
This marble formation is estimated to be at least 2,000 feet in thickness, and 
the three parallel ridges are probably formed by faulted blocks and contain the 
same beds. The form of these ridges is determined by the structure. They 
have smooth though steep slopes on the eastern sides, the slopes generally cor- 
responding with the dip of the marble beds, and extremely rugged, often pre- 
cipitous, slopes on the western sides where the edges of the beds outcrop. These 
ridges are almost entirely devoid of soil and sustain only a scanty vegetation, 
some trees and bushes maintaining a precarious foothold in the crevices of the 
rocks. 

The Cerro de la Daguilla is an elongated cone about 10 miles south of Santa 
Fe. It is composed of dark-green hornblende schist, evidently an altered igne- 
ous rock. It differs completely from the marble monadnocks in the northern 
part of the island. Its slopes are generally smooth, though very steep, and 
covered with sufficient soil to sustain a dense growth of bushes and small trees 
or a thick covering of grass. The Sierras de la Canada, de San Pedro, del Norte, 
and de la Seiba, judging from their forms, are probably composed of rocks sim- 
ilar to those in La Daguilla. 

The Cerros de la Siguanea and de las Maneaderos are groups of low hills in 
the southwestern portion of the island near Siguanea Bay. They are composed 
of schist similar to that underlying the surrounding central plain, except that 
it is more siliceous, and hence better able to resist atmospheric degradation. 

Considering the island in its broader relations, it is evident that it has little 
in common with Cuba. Its geologic structures appear to have no close connec- 
tion with those of the larger island, in fact, the strike of its structural axes is 
nearly at right angles with those of Pinar del Rio, the nearest part of Ctiba. 
No trace of Mesozoic or Tertiary formations, which make up so large a part- of 
Cuba, was observed on the Isle of Pines, though such formations may possibly 
occur in the southern portion south of the great cienaga. Further, the island 
appears to have had an extremely simple geologic history, and to have suffered 
few of the geologic vicissitudes of its northern neighbor. 

Considered from the economic view point the Isle of Pines is scarcely to be 
compared with Cuba. Its soil is not adapted for sugar raising, though certain 
parts are probably as well adapted to tobacco culture as the famous Vuelta 
Abajo district. Much of the island would doubtless produce fruits, as well as 
cacao, which latter is one of the most profitable crops grown in the tropics. 
The industry for which the island appears preeminently fitted is grazing, and 
it will doubtless in time become an important source of supply for cattle and 
sheep for the West Indian markets. 

It is also destined to become an important health resort, and all conditions of 
climate, vegetation, and scenery combine to render it attractive both to invalids 
and others who wish to escape the severe northern winters. 

The mineral resources so far as at present known are confined to marble, but 
of this there is an unlimited amount of different grades, suitable for a great 
variety of purposes. It is possible that iron and manganese may both be dis- 
covered on the island in commercial quantities. 

Unfortunately the island is without deep harbors, which largely neutralizes 
its value from a military standpoint. 



INDEX 



Page. 

Acosta, village 20 

Administration 32 

Age, population 23 

Agriculture, population 25 

Agricultural resources 25 

Aguacate, fruit 29 

Agustin Pol Bay 12 

Aji, Cerros del 8, 12 

Almacijos, village 20 

American enterprises 31 

Animals : 

Cattle 26 

Fowls 26 

Horses 26 

Pigs 26 

Area 5, 6, 22 

Asiento de Santa Fe 7, 20 

Ayuntamiento under Bejucal 32 

Banana, fruit 29 

Barcos, Point de los 5, 7, 10, 11 

Barcos Bay 16 

Barlovento 11 

Batabano, distances to 5, 7, 10 

Batabano, communications 17 

Bays 12, 15 

Bejucal, in judicial district of 32 

Bernardino, stream 7 

Bibijagua Lake 13 

Bibijagua, Morillo of 13 

Bibijagua, Sierra 10,12,13 

Birds 31 

Birthplace, population 23 

Boundaries,, ' 5 

Brava Point (Punta) 11,25 

Buccaneers 33 

Buena Vista Point , 11 

Caballos, Sierra de la 6, 9, 12, 13, 19, 22 

Cable 18 

Caiman 15 

Caimito, fruit 29 

Caleta Grande, village 20,22 

Caletones Point 12 

Callejon, Kio del 7 

Canada, Sierra del 6,8,9,12,15 

Canada, village 20 

Canao Point 11 

Capitan Estuary 11 

Carapachivey Bay 12 

Carapachivey Cove ! 16 

Carapachivey Harbor 16 

Carapachivey, village 20 

Carboneros 20 

Caribbean Sea 5,7 

Carraguao, Punta de 5 

Casas del Norte, Sierra 12,13 

CasasdelSur, Sierra 12,13 



i Bio, Sierra de „_ 7,10,11,13,16,19 

s, Sierra de la 6, 13, 19 

Cattle raising 9,31 

Caudal, village 20 

Caudal Wharf '10 

Cayamas Kiver 7 

Cayuelo, key 11 

Cedar wood 13 

Cedrella odorata wood 28 

Census : 

Report of 1899 22, 23, 24, 25 

Total Spanish enumeration 22 

Total United States enumeration 22 

By wards i 22 

Bural population 22 

Sex, general 22 

Nativity and color 22 

Age and sex 23 

Birthplace 23 

Citizenship 23 

Males 21 years of age and over 23,24 

Conjugal conditions 24 

School attendance 24 

Occupations, of 24 

Number of families 25 

Dwellings and families 25 

Disposition of excreta 25 

Agriculture 25 

Spanish 5, 22 

United States 5, 22 

Charcoal burning 30 

Chirimoya (cherimoyer) 29 

Cholera 15 

Cienaga, Boca de la 8 

Cienaga Bay 16 

Cienaga (swamp) 6,7,8,9,18,25 

Cienfuegos 7 

Citerna, stream 8, 13 

City properties 19, 32 

Civil government 32 

Clay (brick) 27 

Climate 14, 15 

Coco wood 28 

Cocoanut 29 

Cocodrilo Point and Bay 10,11,12 

Coffee 26 

Coins, value in United States standard 31 

Columbus discovered the island 32 

Color, population 22 

Columpo Lake 13 

Columpo, Sierra 10,12 

Commerce: 

Exports, statistics of 31 

Imports, statistics of 31 

Port of entry 31 

Commercial establishments 30 



(39) 



40 



Communications (railroad and steamer), United 
States railroad terminals from Atlantic and 

Gulf ports 17 

Habana via Batabano to Santa Fe and Nueva 

Gerona 17 

Louisville and Nashville Railroad, and steam- 
ers from Pensacola and New Orleans 17, 18 

Pennsylvania Kailroad, southern connec- 
tions, via Tampa or Miami to Habana 17 

Conjugal, population 24 

Coral 15 

Crystals 27 

Cristales, Mount 6 

Crocodiles 15 

Crops 26 

Cuchilla Alta, village 21 

Cultivation, area of 25 

Cultivation, percentage of arable soil 25 

Curazao Point 11 

Daguilla Sierra 6, 9, 12, 13 

Density of population 22 

Dependent islands 25 

Derrotero de las Antillas, quoted 6, 9, 15 

Diablo Bay 12 

Distances, table of: 

From Nueva Gerona to points on the main- 
land 18 

From Nueva Gerona to Habana via Bata- 
bano (a selected list of 35 points on the 

mainland) 18 

From Nueva Gerona to points on mainland 

of the United States 18 

Dues 33 

Dwellings, population 25 

Earthquakes 15 

Education, population 24 

Enterprises, American 31 

Entry, port of 31 

Estates 26 

Exports, not separated 31 

Farm areas 25 

Farm (finca) possibilities 26 

Farms, productive capacity 26 

Families, population 25 

Fauna 31 

Figs 29 

Fish , 31 

Fishing 12, 31 

Fish, red snapper and other food varieties 31 

Lobsters 31 

Turtles 31 

Flamencos (los) 10 

Forests : 

Cedrela odorata 28 

Coco i 28 

Fustic (logwood) 28 

Logwood (fustic) 28 

Mahogany 28 

Pine 28 

Palm, royal _ 28 

Forest exports 28 

Forest grants 29 

Forests, inspector of 29 

Forest products 28, 30 

Frances Point or Cape 6, 12, 15 

Frances, Puerto 11, 16 

Freight rates 26 



French Cape (Frances) 9,11,12 

Fruits : 

Aguacate (alligator pear) 29 

Banana 29 

Caimito 29 

Chirimoya (Cherimoya) 29 

Cocoanut 29 

Figs 29 

Granadilla 29 

Guanabana 29 

Guava 30 

Lima 30 

Lime 30 

Mammee-Sapota 30 

Mamoncillo 30 

Mango 30 

Maranon 30 

Oranges 30 

Papaya (paw-paw) 30 

Pineapple 30 

Sapodilla (plum) 30 

Fuera Point 7, 10 

Fustic (logwood) 28 

Goats 31 

Government, civil 32 

Granadilla, fruit 29 

Grande Bay , 12 

Grande, stream 8 

Grande Estuary 8,10 

Grasses 31 

Grazing, statistics of 31 

Guairajes, wood 13 

Guanabana, fruit 29 

Guanal 12 

Guanal Cape 11 

Guanal Point 11 

Guava, fruit 30 

Guayabo River 7,8 

Habana, distance 5 

Habana, communications 17 

Harbors 15 

Heat 14 

Historical events 33 

Hondes, Los 13 

Honey 26 

Horses 31 

Hospital 21 

Hurricanes 14, 15 

Hydrography 9 

Iguana 31 

Imports, not separated 31 

Indian Point 15 

Indian Key 15 

Indios, Rio de los 8,11,12 

Industries: 

Tobacco, manufactures of 30 

Quarrying 30 

Weaving 30 

Lumber, cutting and sawing, poles and ties. 30 

Charcoal burning 30 

Turpentine 30 

Pitch 30 

Tar 30 

Fishing 31 

Pasturing ^l 

Pasturing statistics 31 

Industrial establishments 30 



41 



Infierno Bay 12 

Inspector of forests 29 

Iron 28 

Itabo, stream 8 

Jagua, Kio de la 8 

Jamaica, distance 5 

Jardines, cays and islets 7, 9, 17 

Jardinillos, cays and islets 7,9,17 

Jorobado, village • 21 

Jucaro, port 8, 16, 20 

Lacunagua Sierra 12,21 

La Evangelista 32 

Lagetta lintearia, wood 13 

Lakes 12, 13 

Lands 10 

Lands, arable 26 

Language 5,19 

Las Nuevas 7,21 

Lignum-vita?, wood 28 

Lima, fruit 30 

Lime, fruit 30 

Literacy, population 23 

Llevat village 21 

Llimtete Bay 11 

Location 5 

Logwood (fustic) 28 

Louisville and Nashville Bailroad and connec- 
tions 17 

Lugo Bay 12 

Lugo Point 12 

Lumber, manufactures of 30 

Mahogany, wood 28 

Majagua Point 8,11 

Mai Pais, Sierra 12 

Mai Pais, stream 8 

Mammee-Sapota, fruit 31 

Mamoncillo, fruit 30 

Manati (sea cow) 31 

Manga 26 

Mangles, Islas de 7 

Mangles, wood 10 

Manigua, Sierra 12 

Mangrove swamps 7 

Mangrove trees 10 

Maps: 

Isle of Pines, surrounding waters and main- 
land faces 5 

Puerto Frances and Siguanea Bay faces 15 

Bailroad and steamer routes from United 
States, railway tide-water terminal points 

and connections for faces 17 

The Isle of Pines; towns, villages, physical 

features, and roads faces 19 

Maracayero Point 11 

Maranon, fruit 30 

Marble 13,27 

Measures, equivalents of, in United States stand- 
ards : 

Dry 32 

Liquid i 32 

Linear 32 

Square 32 

Cubic 32 

Medio, Bio del 8 

Miami, distance 5,17 

Military department 5 



Page. 
Minerals : 

Clay (brick) 27 

Iron 28 

Marble 27 

Salt 28 

Silver 28 

Mineral springs 13 

Chemical analysis of waters 14 

Moisture 14 

Monte, del 8 

Mountains (sierras): 

Aji 12 

Bibijagua 12 

Caballos 12 

Canada 12 

Casas del Norte 12 

Casas del Sur 12 

Columpo 12 

Daguilla 12 

Lacuanagua 12 

Mai Pais 12 

Manigua, La 12 

Monte, del 12 

Pequena 12 

San Jose 12 

San Pedro 12 

Seiba 12 

Mountains (Sierras) 6,9,12 

Muertos creek 13 

Mules 31 

Municipal district 32 

Nativity, population 22 

New Gerona (see Nueva Gerona) 19 

New Orleans, communications 17 

New Orleans, distance 5 

Nicaragua Canal, distance 5 

Northers (la virazon) : 14 

Nueva Gerona (capital) 5, 7, 9, 13, 15, 16, 17, 19 

Nuevas Los, village 15 

Nuevas, Kio de las 8,13 

Occupations, population 24 

Oil, distilled 28 

Oranges 30 

Palacios Kiver 10 

Palm, royal.!. 28 

Palma Alta 21 

Panama Canal, distance 5 

Passenger rates 17 

Pasture lands 13 

Papaya (paw-paw), fruit 30 

Pedernales Point 11, 12, 16 

Penal colony 19 

Peninsula and Occidental Steamship Company 17 

Pennsylvania Bailroad and connections to Isle 

of Pines 17 

Pensacola, communications 17 

Pensacola, distance 5 

Pequena, Sierra 12, 13 

Physical features 6, 9 

Physiography 35 

Piedra, Punta de, and Cape 7, 10 

Piedra del Indio 10 

Piedras, Cayo de 8, 9, 25 

Pigs 31 

Pinar del Bio, distance 5 

Pineapple, fruit 30 



42 



Page. 

Pines, Isle of, geography of 9 

Pines, Isle of 1, 5, 9, 15, 19, 22, 27, 28, 31, 32 

Pines, Isle of, communications 17 

Pines, Isle of, rates 17 

Pine trees 10 

Pino, Esterodel 11,15,16 

Pitch 30 

Plant System 17 

Playa Larga 11 

Political status 32 

Population 5, 19, 22 

Population, rural 22 

Port of entry 31 

Post offices: 

Nueva Gerona 19 

Santa Fe 20 

Potrero Point 8 

Prietos, wood 13 

Products of Agriculture: 

Bananas 26 

Beans . 26 

Boniatos (sweet potatoes) 26 

Chocolate 26 

Cocoanuts 26 

Coffee; 26 

Indian corn (maize) 26 

Lettuce 26 

26 

26 

Plantain 26 

Bice 26 

Sugar 26 

Tobacco 26 

Tuca (cassava) 1 26 

Properties, city 32 

Public lands 33 

Purgatorio Bay 12 

Quarrying 30 

Quitrin 6 

Kace 5 

Bailroad and steamer communications 17 

Bainfall 14 

Bains 14 

Kancheria Point 12 

Kancheria, La, a tongue of land < 11,12 

Bancheria of the East 11 

Bancho Viejo_!. 10 

Bates, railroad: 

From New York 17 

From Philadelphia 17 

From Washington 17 

Beina Amalia 5 

Beptiles 31 

Bhode Island, compai'ison 6 

Bivers 7,9 

Bivers, navigable: 

Casas 13 

Nuevas 13 

Santa Fe 13 

Boads: 

Nueva Gerona to Santa Fe 19 

Punta Brava 19 

Siguanea Bay 19 

Santa Fe to Sierra de los Crystales 19 

Bobles, wood 13 

Bosario, village 21 

Bubber ,. 27 



Salinas Point * 10 

Salt deposits 10, 28 

San Antonio 18,21 

San Francisco de las Piedras 21 

San Juan 8,21 

San Jose, village 15,21 

San Jose, Sierra 7,9,12,15 

San Pedro 21 

San Pedro del Monte, Sierra 12 

San Pedro, stream 8 

Santa Fe 7,20,22 

Santa Fe, communications 17 

Santa Fe, Bio 8,10,13,16 

Santa Bita de la Jagua 21 

Santa Bosalia 7,21 

Santa Teresa 7,15,21 

Santiago, stream 8 

Sapodillo, fruit 30 

Sawmills 28 

Schools 32 

Seasons 13, 14 

Seborucos, causeway 10 

Seboruco Alto Point 11 

Seiba, Sierra de la 8,12 

Sex, population 22, 23 

Shells 15 

Silver 28 

Simon Creek 10 

Sierras 6,9 

Sierra. (See name of.) 

Siguaneita , 11 

Siguanea Bay and anchorage , 8, 11, 13, 15 

Siguanea hill 9 

Siguanea, Bio de la 8,12 

Siguanea Swamp 11 

Soil 15, 25, 26 

Soil, cultivation 26 

Soldado Estuary 11 

Status, political, of the Isle of Pines 32 

Steamer and railroad communications 17 

Streams, list of 7 

Sugar cane 27 

Sugar plantations 26 

Sugar production 26 

Tampa, communications 5, 17 

Tar 30 

Taxes 33 

Telegraph 18 

Temperature • 14, 15 

Timber, area of 13,25 

Tinas, Arroya de las 8 

Tobacco 27 

Tobacco, manufactures of 30 

Tobacco, plantations 26 

Tobacco, products 26 

Topography 9,15 

Towns: 

Jucaro 20 

Nueva Gerona 19, 20 

Santa Fe 20 

Trades 15 

Turpentine 30 

Vegetable products (see Products of agriculture). 26 
Villages: 

Acosta 20 

Almacijos 20 

Asciento de Santa Fe 20 



43 



Villages— Continued. Page. 

Caleta Grande 20 

Canada 20 

Carapachivey 20 

Carboneros 20 

Caudal 20 

( luchilla Alta 21 

Hospital 21 

Jorobado 21 

Lacunagua 21 

Las Nuevas 21 

Llevat 21 

Palnia Alta 21 

Kosario _1 21 

San Jose 21 

San Juan 21 

.San Pedro 21 

San Antonio 21 

San Francisco de las Piedras 21 

Santa Eita de Jagua 21 

Santa Rosalia 21 

Santa Teresa 21 

.Seiba 21 



"Villages — Continued. Page. 

Sierra de la Caballos 22 

Sierra de Casas 22 

Vigia (La) Point 12 

Waters, chemical analysis of 14,15 

Weaving 30 

Weights, equivalents in United States standards__ 32 

Winds 14 

Woods : 

Cedar 13 

Guairages 13 

Mahogany 13 

Mangles 13 

Palatianes 13 

Pine 13 

Prietos 13 

Robles 13 

Sabicues 13 

Yayas 13 

Yayas, wood 13 

Yellow fever 15 

Yucatan, Mexico, distance 5 



